Food review by Frank Liebeskind and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

Canapes

We had three great canapes by three members.

Greg Chugg was again on canapes, again serving his excellent pate (chicken livers I believe he said), this version to fit Keith’s Latino theme, had pate with peppercorns, Tabasco and Mezcal (no worm found in the pate).

Greg’s pate wasn’t hot, but complex in taste, Greg catered for everyone’s taste for heat. Some pate was served on “flavoured” corn chips and his second version was his pate on plain corn chips with a slice of pickled jalapeno on top.

I preferred the latter, great taste in the mouth with the jalapeno kicking in after a few seconds. Well done Greg, you are showing to be a pate master. And a reminder, Steve Sparkes wants you to take another step forward and be the COTD in 2024 ????.

Then came the second canape, a Paul Thorne brilliant duck consommé served in little paper cups. To add complexity and as Paul says, duck and orange is a marriage made in heaven, Paul created an orange and cognac concentrate with orange zest for added flavour, then sprayed the concentrate into each duck cconsommé cup. Brilliant, and no one doubts Paul is the duck king with his consumes and jus and everything duck. Thank you Paul, loved it.

The final canape was something totally different, another favourite in the room, I loved its complexity and combination of tastes.

James Tinslay did Medjool dates with a stuffing of 2/3 goat and 1/3 cream cheese with paprika, Kashmiri chilli and finely chopped chorizo,

and just before oven warming, James pushed roasted pecan nuts into the stuffing, topped it with mozzarella cheese, and then warmed at about 180C until the cheese browns. Very well received and enjoyed by all Members.

Main

Then came the main, by the COTD Keith Steele.

I love “street food” and Keith’s pulled pork “Latino” style certainly didn’t disappoint me. I thought it had the correct balance of flavour and heat, I know some members found it a little too hot.

We had soft and juicy slow cooked pulled pork with chipotle and butter beans, Mexican red rice and smashed avocado.

Keith slow cooked pork shoulder and the heat and flavour came from a small (100g) can of La Morena Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce, about 1 can per 8 servings. So if you liked it, but it was too hot, try it and use less Chipotle.

There was also onion, garlic, tomato paste and several herbs and spices. Keith served his dish with Mexican red rice which was cooked in stock then blended with tomato paste and sautéed onions and garlic.

The garnish was a bit of chopped avocado.

Bread

Bread today was a real favourite, and many members asked for details and “where d’ya get it”. So Keith said the bread was a light rye sourdough from Cornucopia Bakery in Naremburn, and they have another outlet in Castle Cove.

Cheese

Today we had an excellent blue that no one picked its origin. Many said Gippsland, but we had Cantorel Bleu d'Auvergne AOP from Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France.

From the notes provided by the Cheese Master, this AOP cow’s milk cheese has been made in the Auvergne region for several centuries, traditionally matured in mountain caves where the unique blue mould flora flourished.

Although no longer cave ripened, AOP regulations still stipulate that cheese must be produced at a minimum 500m altitude, in specific geographical regions and using milk only from cows born in the region.

Each whole cheese is foil wrapped to prevent the rind forming and after three months maturation, an even spread of steely blue veins spreads through the body of the cheese.

Mature cheeses have a moist and slightly crumbly texture with a tart and salty flavour. The cheese served was in excellent condition, and enjoyed by all.

Wine

Those avid followers of my column will remember that last week after a tremendous lunch, I travelled to Manderley again in my velvet smoking Jacket and wearing my baby seal slippers. Sadly that trip seems to have exhausted me and today I am feeling very flat. Sorry about that. Overall the wines today did do not much to lift my spirits, except for the two excellent Rieslings. and the last red. So it goes.

The first Riesling was a Crawford River from Victoria 13.5% year 2015.  This wine deserves its high reputation. Terrific acid/fruit combo holding well together for a 7yo. Some slight residual sugar, but still finishing clean and crisp. Would seem to have many years ahead for further development. I wish we saw this wine more often. Some apple/grapefruit overtones. Lovely wine, high price is a deterrent.

The second wine was again one of my favourites the Seppelt Drumborg 2016 at 11%. A wine from the Henty region of Victoria. An excellent wine, with great fruit and perfect balance. A delight to drink. Mouth filling flavours of apple and citrus, crisp finish. Very hard to have a favourite as both are high quality wines. Perhaps the Crawford River by just a nose.

Next cab off the rank was a Hugel Gewurztraminer from 2018. 13.5%  This wine was clearly designed to accompany the rather hot and spicy main course. Very floral and full-bodied with strong aromas of lychee and other exotic fruits. A bit too sweet on the finish to my taste, but none the less a quality well made wine, perfect for those who favour that style.  

First Red was a 2012 Gibson Dirtman Shiraz, 14.5% from the Barossa. Big wine by any description and expensive. Huge flavours of ripe fruits,  plumbs, spice and cedar. Restrained tannin with high alcohol was slightly noticed. Rich and developed mouthfeel.  Still drinking well for an 11yo.

The next wine was Erste + Neue Pinot Bianco from 2020 at 13%, from Northern Italy. A popular dry white in Europe, producing a full bodied wine with some acidity. The wine had no instant appeal to me, without food, but when accompanied by the cheese, it really came to life. Bit hard to define its flavours having just had a very spicy pulled pork, but with the cheese it worked well.

The last wine for the day was a very attractive Franklin River Shiraz 2016, 14%. As stated before, I am not generally a fan of WA Shiraz unlike their Cabernets, but giving credit to where it is due, I really liked this wine. Very good balance between quality fruit, acid and tannin. Mouthfeel ranged from intense ripe fruit, pepper and spice. Overall a very impressive Shiraz with a lingering finish.