It wasn't quite around the world in eighty days, but wines from three countries in one hour isn't bad. Our indefatigable Wine Master presented 3 Oz and 3 foreign wines, which turned out to be from France and Italy. For the palate-challenged, it was enough to look at them to tell the two groups apart, the European numbers 2, 4 and 5 being significantly paler in colour than the locals. And of course, the tastes told the same tale, with the Aussies big and fruity, the imports finer and more acidic. In order on the table, they were: 2006 Mountain Blue cabernet/shiraz from Mudgee; a 2009 Gigonda from the Rhone in France; 2006 Seppelts St Peters shiraz from Grampians in Victoria; a 2009 Chianti Classico from Italy; 2009 Ch Lanessan, a cru bourgeois form Bordeaux; and 2006 Orlando St Hugo cabernet from Coonawarra. The three locals won most plaudits, the 1st two in particular showing elegance with heft and all were close to each other in style than to any of the imports, despite differences in grape and area. The overseas wines will benefit from a bit more age, the Rhone and the Chianti proving the best of the bunch.

They were preceded by the usual mix of aperitifs, a 2011 Red Robin Riesling from Clare being no match for a 2005 Wilson Riesling from Polish Hill; whilst a brace of fino sherries in half bottles, including an Oz, were reliable. From the kitchen, Greg Sproule sent forth some tasty canapes, a soft tapenade sans anchovies on crispbread pieces and a zippy crab mayo and coriander mix on the same. He followed up with a good unobtrusive beef bourguignon made on chuck and topside steak with plenty of aromatic vegetables and herbs and a rich comforting sauce slightly thickened with flour. Fresh green asparagus and mashed potato were traditional, and welcome, accompaniments.

Cheese saw a St Agur, a blue mould cows' milk from the Auvergne in France. Served from a whole round, it was soft, luscious and showing a slightly bitter palate from the mould which cut the richness well. Crunchy almonds and fruit were a suitable match.

An unidentified Indian coffee was rich and not too bitter. It was lifted by a second helping of James Healey's birthday cognac from a few weeks earlier.