For the last wine tasting for 2014, Wine master Paul Ferman took us north with a mix of French and Italian, red and white. But first, it was back home for aperitifs, starting with a 2006 Delatite riesling from Victoria, sound and fresh but uninspiring against a 2001 Richmond Grove riesling from Watervale. There were also a few mixed bottles, including a terrific Lindemans HR Semillon which most didn't see, and the usual Lustau sherry, this time a manzanilla. All in keeping with some great seafood canapes from James Hill: Sydney rock oysters minimally treated with lemon juice and pepper, and an intriguing tartare of cubed raw ocean trout, avocado, sushi rice and grapes with salmon roe, served on porcelain spoons.

The tasting comprised 3 whites, all from France, and 3 reds, 2 Italian and 1 French. In order of presentation, the whites were: a 2010 Dom Ferde 1er cru Chablis, quite forward and slightly sweet; a 2010 Sancerre (sauvignon blanc) showing varietal grassy notes but intense flavour and acid to hold it; and a 2008 dry iesling from Alsace, still piercingly acidic with fine underlying fruit and a lingering finish. They, and the 2nd two in particular, were a better match with the food (but not the cheese) than the red group, which were in order: 2011 Cos Pippas, a lightish and slightly brambly wine from Sicily; a 2010 cabernet franc from Anjou, big nose and palate lacking complexity; and a 2009 Antonori chianti classic, big, soft tannins and the best of the 3. To accompany, an Indonesian/ Malayan style coconut chicken: organic thighs marinated overnight in ginger, lemongrass, coconut cream and a masala paste, then baked and served with jasmine rice cooked with ginger, and a cool salad of smashed cucumber with red onion, a hit of garlic and pickled ginger. Despite the Asian origins, the dish was only delicately spiced and was a good match for the wines, especially the whites.

The cheese had everyone floundering, with a semi-soft smooth texture, a light ivory colour and a strong caramel nutty taste. It was in fact a Midnight Moon goats' milk number from Holland, matured for at least 6 months and surprisingly well paired with simple ripe nectarine halves and with the tasting wines, where the reds came good.

The coffee came to us from Indonesia, organically grown Arabica beans from a commune in the Aceh region of Sumatra. Sometimes superb in quality and presentation, this particular batch showed some but not all of that quality, with a strong, slightly caramel palate followed by a persistent finish.