The cook offs for the 2014 Chef of the Year got off to a flying start with contender Ted Davis in the lists (assisted by fellow contender Gareth Evans) producing the goods for a large crowd of 54, some unbooked and exerting pressure on quantities which Ted surmounted with aplomb.

Canapes were superior pork rillettes with plenty of moisture and flavour topped with a cornichon and served on baguette slices; and some salty, tangy white anchovy fillets atop roasted red pepper slices, again on baguette. Fresh and inviting, they were well accompanied by (some of) 2005 Tyrrells Vat 1 and HVD, the ones not oxidised or corked being pleasant, plus some extras from First Creek in the Hunter, some chardonnay from Vasse Felix in WA and the reliable Lustau manzanilla sherry.

On to poultry as the main course, with all ducks fed and ready to fly. They had been boned and rolled into a ballotine with a stuffing of pork mince, pistachios and the intense flavour of duck livers to lift it. Baked then sliced, it came to the table above a well- made kumera puree and under a terrific sauce made on the duck bones with aromatic vegetables and a large glug of port. Simple in concept if not in execution, it was a wonderful combination of colours, flavours and textures, and certainly set the standard for the cook offs to come. The accompanying wines were of higher than usual standard, being a 2012 Chiroubles gamay from Beaujolais with colour, lift and some elegance which had most mistaking it for a pinot; and a 2009 Tamar Ridge pinot from Tasmania, lighter in colour and body with a delicate fragrance but lacking substance.

It was Ted's pick for the cheese, and he did it again, with Ross MacDonald presenting a top Bleu D'Auvergne from that part of France. It was in great condition, showing plenty of marbling, a creamy but slightly crumbly texture and some soft blue mould spices with a tart finish. Cabernets were a good match, a 2008 Vasse Felix showing dark rich fruit, a bit tough at this stage but destined for greater things, and a 1998 Wynns Black Label from Coonawarra, at its peak with minty, Ribena fruit balanced by soft drying tannins, a pleasure to drink.

The coffee, in the absence of the Master, was a concerto (or cacophony) of blends from previous weeks which turned out surprisingly rich and rounded: perhaps the start of a Society blend. With it, for some but not all, were a couple of spare stickies providing a sweet contrast.