With Scott Witt in the kitchen, some quality (North) American food was inevitable, and we got it. Assisted by the ubiquitous James Hill, Scott first presented canapes of chopped liver, the New York version of a pate only more chunky with chopped boiled eggs and plenty of chicken liver flavour, served on thin toasts, and clams/vongole/pippis served on the ½ shell under a crust of citrusy toasted breadcrumbs. A variety of wines appeared with these, chiefly a 2004 Alkoomi Riesling from WA, sound and developed but lacking intensity. There were also a few leftovers from the COTY Dinner on Saturday night, including a '98 Bin 389, a classy Bannockburn shiraz and a bit of Tyrrells Vat 6 pinot, together with the usual, but always welcome, Lustau sherry.

The main course was made to satisfy, with tender marylands of chicken twice dipped in a light batter flavoured with herbs and a touch of chili, then deep fried, coming to the table moist and succulent with a crisp but light batter coat. Accompanying it was what Scott called a broccoli confit, with florets cooked low and slow in oil infused with spice and chilli (again, but mild) resulting in a soft and unctuous dish, and some well -cooked chat potatoes. Two wines from 2002 were the matches: a Tatachilla Partners cabernet-shiraz and a Burtons Limestone Coast merlot. Both were drinking surprisingly well for their age and quality, the Tatachilla soft and mellow with nowhere to go, and the Burton more structured but still in balance and at its peak.

The Cheese Master, Ross MacDonald, pursued the US theme with the universally popular Cabots clothbound cheddar from Vermont, a real find with the texture and soft mushroom flavour of an English cheddar, accompanied simply by dates, walnuts and lemon-sprinkled sliced apple. We stayed in 2002 with the wines: a monster (14.5%) Taylors Clare shiraz dripping with ripe fruit and chocolate notes; and a Pepperjack Barossa shiraz, also 14.5% and fruit-dominant but with clean tannins giving it greater life on the palate and most members' pick as wine of the day.

The American theme, mercifully, did not extend to the coffee, a medium roast from Sidamo in Ethiopia, showing warm chocolate and spice notes on the palate with a good hit of acid to prolong the finish. A splash of leftover Taylors port made a welcome addition.