Gary Linnane, with help from James Hill, was wielding the pans to produce what turned out to be appropriate food on a bitter winter's day. It may have been the weather which caused a disappointing rollup, a pity for those who missed out on Gary's offerings. We started with some marinated button mushrooms, testing members' skills at spearing with toothpicks, a gentle egg mayo topped by a suitably salty ortiz anchovy on crisp biscuits and moist and firm smoked ocean trout with mascarpone on blinis – all good and let down a bit by a 2011 Warramate Yarra Valley riesling, an average example of the style with a shortage of fruit and life. No such problems with a nutty dry amontillado sherry from Lustau, also on offer.

It was off to Morocco for the main course, a slow-cooked diced lamb shoulder with eggplant,tomatoes, onions and an undertone of roasted cumin, simply matched with pearl or Israeli couscous. The meat was sweet and soft and the combination clean and satisfying, especially when a spoonful of yoghurt and cucumber sambal presented seperately was added. A couple of interesting wines were on offer, the 1st a 2009 Blue Pyrenees cabernet showing distinctive cabernet red berries but lacking intensity and length. The second, served masked, had many going cabernet franc, with strong briary characters and cool climate delicacy, so surprising when unveiled as a 2009 Huntington cabernet from Mudgee.

The English weather was matched by a good hearty English-style cheese in the form of a Maffra cloth-aged cheddar from Gippsland. It was relatively young and showed a soft paste with obvious cheddar bite which will develop with age. A nicely bitter salad of radicchio and cos leaves was balanced by a balsamic dressing. Both were well served by a brace of older wines, a 2004 Rufus Stone shiraz from Heathcote in Victoria and a 2001 Tatachilla Partners cabernet/shiraz from McLaren Vale. The 1st was better, a high alcohol of 15% not adversely affecting the balance of a big sweet red at its peak; whilst the Tatachilla was past its best but still drinking well for what was a commercial release.

Finally, Spencer Ferrier arranged the 1st in a series of coffees from Ethiopia, this one a Sidamo bean showing perhaps under-roasted lightness in the mouth but some interesting fruity characters and a herbal finish.