This month the Wine Master took pity on us, with a simple theme which even the slowest could follow:2 pinots, 2 shiraz and 2 cabernets, each bracket containing 1local and 1 French wine, and served in that order. The main challenge was to identify which was local and which foreign in each bracket and, more importantly, why. There was a high degree of success among those who spoke, and consensus that all the wines were of high quality, with 1 possible exception. Unmasked, the wines were, in order: 2010 Yabby Lake pinot from Mornington Peninsula; 2009 Vougeot from Remoissenet; 2011 Giles Robin Crozes-Hermitage from N Rhone; 2007 Tyrrells Vat 9 shiraz; 2002 Ch Haut-Bages-Liberal from Pauillac; and 1999 Yeringburg cabernet from the Yarra Valley. All typical of their styles, with structure in the French and fruit in the Oz, the Yerinburg being singled out for special mention as a top wine at its peak. The only disappointment was the Bordeaux, sound but dull and probably past its best.

The accompanying food was a team effort, with Spencer Ferrier and Peter Kelso in the kitchen serving up a white wine coq au vin (made on riesling, if you must know) prepared by Nick Reynolds. Canapes were a perennial favourite of smoked salmon with a cream of mascarpone and chopped dill and a caper or two on lavosh; and the even more popular fresh Sydney rock oysters with lemon juice and a hit of tabasco. They went well with a 2004 Alkoomi Riesling, mature but still sound, and a 2005 Huntington Bin W1 semillon, soft and quite sweet fruit balanced by a lick of acid.

The aforesaid coq au vin came to the plate (in rather small helpings) set off by well- made mash and a bit of broccolini to satisfy the nutritionists. Straightforward food which offset the wines well.

Cheese had most fooled, going to France or Italy for a wonderful washed rind which was actually a Tarago River Jensens Red from Victoria with a lovely crunchy orange rind and a smooth sticky paste showing sweet mild nutty characters. Some sliced corella pears and a bowl of toasted almonds, cranberries and dates provided a sweet and refreshing accompaniment, as did the remainder of the tasting wines; and, for those lucky enough to have kept some, the aperitif semillon. A rich, chocolate mouthful of Mexican organic coffee, very good, was matched in quality by a birthday muscat from Frank Liebeskind, an unreleased product by Tim Kirk of Clonakilla which ticked all the boxes. Somebody's arm was twisted, apparently, and all for the best.