Our genial, and talented, Food Master, Nick Reynolds, was the go-to man, helped in the plating area by James Hill. Italian was the theme, and all masters rose to the occasion.

KISS was the principle for nibbles, with some chopped fresh figs wrapped in prosciutto: a good salt and sweet hit to start, followed by savoury in the form of reconstituted Nonna's meatballs, presented small and redolent with paprika and herbs. Better with the former than then latter was an aperitif 2003 Tyrrells Vat 4 HVD Semillon, lacking acid structure but quite sweet and pleasant as it was. A Lustau fino, ever-reliable, was also on offer.

The (summer) Italian theme continued with vitello tonnato, but not as most knew it. Instead of the traditional hot-boiled veal, Nick cooked his veal knuckles sous vide until on the well-done end of rare, then sliced them thin and presented them in fanned slices on the plate topped by the tuna sauce and a little caprese salad of fresh sliced tomato, mozzarella and basil. The veal was cooked in a stock with vegetables and lots of anchovy, and some of the stock was added to a rich sauce made on hard-boiled egg yolks, canned tuna and a heap of capers, the whole served cold. The meat was glowing pink and tender, and the sauce was rich and full of flavour, although some called for a bigger caper hit. Full marks for presentation, and for execution. There was an international lineup of wine to accompany, a 2013 Tellurian rose from Heathcote made on shiraz, mourvedre and nero d'avola (a red grape from Sicily), showing a dry palate with a good mix of floral and spice although served a bit too chilled. It was pretty good with the food, but most preferred a 2011 Allegrini valpolicella, with rose hints and long and soft on the palate with subtle tannin grip.

Not to be outdone, Ross MacDonald turned on an outstanding cheese, a thoroughly ripe and runny Taleggio washed rind cows' milk number from the eponymous country. The rind was coloured with red notes and showed salty and crunchy maturity without a trace of ammonia, while the oozy, nutty paste filled the mouth (and the plate). Some organic apricots and mixed salted nuts were simple and apt accompaniments; as were a brace of accompanying barbera reds: a 2010 La Zona from the King Valley in Victoria; and a 2009 Castellania Colli Tortonesi from N Italy. The local was an enjoyable wine, with full and soft fruit, but could not match the acid and tannin structure of the real thing, lively and impressive.

An Italian roast of New Guinea beans provided a full and rich coffee to finish with some typical bitterness showing through to cut the richness of the meal.