In an early display of spring fever, our Wine Master Paul Ferman attempted, and largely succeeded in executing, a triple reverse somersault with pike by cooking (with a hand from Gary Linnane) as well as selecting the wines. We now look forward to a foodie invasion of the cellar.

To start, Paul gave us a couple of aperitifs from Tellurian, a vineyard in Heathcote, Vic. First up was a 2013 marsanne, a Rhone white grape best known here for the consistently good product from Tahbilk. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for this wine, with some good fruit overpowered by 14% alcohol and a slightly viscous consistency to yield a flavoursome but heavy wine. A rose from the same stable was better, nicely dry bur still lacking elegance. Along with the reliable Lustau fino sherry, the canapes starred, with some classy Ortiz anchovies atop a tasty but not dominant tomato relish on lightly toasted rounds, and a rich and comforting soup, made on artichokes with potato, celery, herbs and plenty of cream and butter, served warm in cups.

Before devising the meal, Paul's devious mind had concocted a test of palates, in which a few members did surprisingly well. Two whites and 5 reds (one a birthday bonus from Ross Tzannes) were presented masked, identified only as 3 French and 1 each from USA, Italy, Greece and Australia, and the hunt was on. No bread was thrown (the Iggys sourdough was too good to waste), but opinions differed although there was greater agreement on favoured wines. Once revealed, the 1st surprise was the 1st white, a 2008 riesling from Oregon in the sweeter range. Then they were, in order: 2008 Alsace Riesling (intense and the best wine on the table for many); a 2006 Pommard 1er cru (typically light and elegant, and slightly overcooked, the birthday wine); 2011 Chianti Classico (a big chianti which had some tending towards Oz); a2009 Greek blend featuring syrah amongst others (not nearly as bad as jaundiced tasters were looking for); 2006 Seppelts St Peters( disappointing for a wine of this quality, with fruit dropping out); and 2005 Ch Lanessan,(an unclassified Bordeaux which showed a degree of bottle variation according to comments from some tables, but which was very good on most). Mostly at the more restrained end of the spectrum, the reds in particular were tested against Paul's rustic French chicken casserole, featuring a sauce with heaps of herbs, bacon pieces and lots of flavour, with the chicken (on the bone) slightly overdone on some plates. A light potatoes dauphin and some still slightly crunchy sliced zucchini made up the plate.

Doubtless anticipating the main course food and the top Burgundy on offer, Ross MacDonald chose to present a Delice de Bourgogne, aptly described as "a decadent triple cream" from Burgundy; in perfect condition with an earthy inviting rind surrounding a sweet buttery paste which invoked cholesterol amnesia. Simple grapes were all that was needed to accompany, along with the wines and the aforementioned Iggy's bread.

We moved to Mexico with the coffee, a medium roast bean well described by Spencer Ferrier as well balanced in all respects. Much like the whole meal, really.