Lunch 26 April 2016

This date in history has experienced its fair share of disasters including the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant explosion. Whilst Tuesday’s lunch with CoTD Josef Condrau may not rate with that incident it was nonetheless harrowing when the raw duck breasts finally arrived in the kitchen at noon. A good team effort from Josef, Chef Pete and Joseph in the kitchen had the meal back on course to accompany the twelve fabulous Burgundy’s presented by Ray Healey. A veritable team of helpers on canapes.

Canapés. Josef served three starters which were:

$1·         Smoked rainbow trout from the Blue Mountains on sourdough baguette with a little horseradish

$1·         Air-dried beef (Swiss speciality) wrapped around a piece of melon

$1·         Escargots done in butter with garlic, shallots and parsley served on a spoon

The trout and beef based dishes provided a good contrast with the beef exhibiting a good likeness in texture and style with prosciutto. The escargots were served after being seated and were a real treat.

Aperitif wine. The day being a Burgundy focussed event the starting wines were for whetting the palate before getting into the real deal. We enjoyed Aubert NV Champagne, Denmar Chardonnay 2010 and the mandatory Lustau Fino.

Main course. Our CoTD after overcoming the first hurdle served duck breast in a sour cherry sauce from a reduction of Pinot Noir, balsamic vinegar, juice of sour cherries, brown sugar, spiced with grated fresh ginger, tarragon, cayenne pepper and kirsch. This was served with pitted Hungarian sour cherries, polenta and beans. The breasts were of a substantial size (often commented upon) with a thick fat layer which kept the meat moist. The sauce was complex and beautifully matched to the duck.

The wines. A magnificent selection of 2014 Burgundies from Ray Healey. They were:

$1·         Philippe Chéron, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées

$1·         Chéron Gevrey-Chambertin Champonnet 1er Cru

$1·         Phillipe Chéron Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux

$1·         Phillipe Chéron Chambolle-Musigny les Quarante Ouvrées

$1·         Phillipe Chéron Chambolle-Musigny Clos de l'Orme

$1·         Christian Clerget Chambolle-Musigny

$1·         Georges Lignier Chambolle-Musigny

$1·         Christian Clerget Vosne-Romanée Les Violettes

$1·         Christian Clerget Echezeau Grand Cru

$1·         Georges Lignier Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru

$1·         Georges Lignier Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru

$1·         Georges Lignier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Ray also treated us to a magnum of the 2012 Georges Lignier Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru for a comparison with its younger 2014 sibling. The 2014s were as expected tight with ranges of tannin and the comparison with the 2012 showed how quickly the wines can become more approachable whilst far from their peak.

Whilst the Grand Cru bracket were extraordinary the bracket of four Chambolle-Musigny were equally absorbing with the range of power and tannins. Thank you Ray for a wonderful tasting and an educational experience for many.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey was asked to provide a Swiss mountain cheese by the CoTD and did so with Blumenkase, from pasteurised cow’s milk. It was texture wise much like Gruyere but with more sweetness. A very good choice was the general view.

Coffee from Spencer Ferrier was a 50/50 blend of Goroka Pearl and Devon Estate both Society regular coffees. It was intense and certainly pleasing.