Our Society’s Life Member Ted Davis was the Chef of the Day and was assisted by another very experienced cook in Gareth Evans. The meal and wines were excellent. Ted reminded those present that they were not members of a luncheon club but rather members of a society, the Wine and Food Society of New South Wales and he supported a “surprise” meal each week, not being informed of all details beforehand.

Canapés. We were treated to three starters. In no particular order, Gareth’s homemade focaccia to match his dukka creation. This was followed by sardines pickled with mascarpone and spices on crisp bread rounds. Finally small skewers upon which were mounted buffalo bocconcini balls, roasted dried tomatoes and basil with olive oil. Our 43 members had no trouble disposing of all canapés.

Aperitif wine. To start the Italian wine component of the feast Paul served us Ronco Gelso Sot Lis Rivis Friuli 2014 from Northeast Italy. Friulis are Pinot Grigio (called Pinot Gris in other areas) fruit, this one under cork at 13% alcohol. Aromatic and richer than a usual Friuli possibly from aging in old oak barrels. The fruity style went well with the canapés but some found it too fruity.

Main course. Ted and Gareth put much effort in the some 250 kangaroo tail ravioli served to us. This represented 13 kg of tail. Ted joked one was the animal hit between Orange and Parkes. We think he was joking!

The presentation was beautiful. Soft pasta and meat in a sauce of great depth. The bread was put to good effect mopping up the sauce which included some Pinot Grigio. Ted place a kangaroo tail bone piece on each table as show of authenticity.

The wines – a wine lunch

• Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre Veronese IGT 2011 (“Valpolicella” style) (cork, 13.5%)
• Fontodi Chianti Classico 2011 (cork, 14.5%)
• Prunotto Barolo 2008 (cork, 13.5%)
• Aldo Conterno Lanhge Il Favot Nebbiolo 2008 (cork, 14.5%)
• Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (cork, 15%)
• Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 (cork, 13.5%)

For many this was the best selection of wine at a lunch in some considerable time. The Allegrini stood out from the rest with its darker colour. Some raisined character from a small percentage of dried fruit gave it great depth. The Fontodi is an upper end Chianti Classico made from 100% Sangiovese. 2011 was not a top year but surprisingly full bodied and rich enough to cope with the food and the other 2011.

Next we had a pair of 2008s both Nebbiolo based. The Prunotto was a Barolo and very approachable at such a young age. A fine texture, savoury with a long finish. Not overly complex and the rusty tank water colour gave it away before the nose did. The Conterno, a Langhe Nebbiolo was a social class down from the Barolo and may have some Barbera mixed in as was traditional to give it a darker hue. It lacked a bit of structure compared to its higher placed companion.

Finally, the 2006s an exceptional year in Tuscany. Firstly the Gaja Brunello Montalcino which was the top wine of lunch for many. Whilst off young vines it had dark fruit befitting the ranking of the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). The fresh, soft red cherry palate was well balanced by moderate tannins. Wonderful. Antinori make much wine but the Badia is up there with its more expensive and best. It was showing its age a little but the power was still evident with some cherry still evident. It lost out to its wonderful predecessor.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey served an Australian cheese, L’Artisan Mountain Man a washed rind from cow’s milk from Victoria. It had a surprising pungency and was beautifully soft in texture. This was accompained by a simple but tasty radiccho and olive oil salad.

Spencer Ferrier matched our Italian theme with the high end (and expensive) illy brand coffee. Packed in steel canisters pressurised with an inert gas rather than air, the coffee is made from Arabica varieties from a range of countries. The plunger coffee presented with a floral note and was smooth with a definite chocolate finish. A real treat.