This week we had a break from the Chef of the Year cook-off lunches as it was the March wine luncheon. Gary Patterson was on the pans and ably assisted by Paul Thorne.

Canapés. We were treated to three canapés to start this lunch. Paul had produced two soups for us, both cauliflower based, one with a decidedly brilliant purple colour which of course was from a purple cauliflower. The disposable plastic drinking containers Paul supplied were apparently new to everyone and were a wonderful idea. The plain white cauliflower soup had been prepared with capsicum, garlic, apple cider, chilli and paprika and had a wonderful flavour much spicier than the purple version. Gary served a canapé of clearly fresh green prawns lightly pan-fried in a mix of spices. The quality of the seafood was brilliant and the soup and the prawns provided a wonderful contrast.

Aperitif wine. In the Winemaster’s absence this week Ross Tzannes filled in very well. The aperitif wine was a Craggy Range Riesling 2011. Most found it a little bland but clean and consistent under screwcap, the fruit level struggling to entice. Disappointing from such high-quality maker.

Main course. Gary’s meal was based around an eye fillet of beef. It was served simply with jus with potato and some iceberg lettuce on which had been placed corn, tomato and other vegetables. The simplicity was well appreciated in the room and the beef fillet quality and doneness was perfect. Gary thanked Pete the chef for helping him achieve this result.

The wines.

• Argiano Brunello Montalcino 2007 (cork, 13.5%)
• Guigal Cote Rotie 2007 (cork, 14.0%)
• Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (cork, 14.0%)
• Penfolds Bin 389 Shiraz Cabernet 2004 (cork, 14.0%)
• Penfolds Bin 389 Shiraz Cabernet 1998 (cork, 14.0%)
• Penfolds Bin 389 Shiraz Cabernet 1996 (cork, 14.0%)

In summary, a beaut group of wines.

The Brunello and Cote Rotie provided a real contrast as would be expected. The Italian Sangiovese was of lighter hue showing dried fruits on the nose with a wonderfully smooth long palate and overriding elegance. The Syrah Cote Rotie was more powerful with dusty soft tannins and came through as an iron fist in a velvet glove.

Then came a group of four Penfolds wines. The Bin 407 has long been the poor cousin but now retails at the same price as the Bin 389. At 13 years of age it was still a dense wine, a little one-dimensional but still with noticeable tannins showing from the hand-me-down Bin 707 wood. It had a hard edge and a little bit of bitterness. The three bottles of Bin 389 being 2004, 1998 and 1996 were an interesting contrast. The 2004 was of course full-bodied, well-balanced and just needs a bit of time. Fine wine. The 1998 had slight oxidation which could have been brought about by the early pour, the lunch being a wine tasting. However, the underlying fruit was poor with a degree of volatility. The 1998 vintage in South Australia showed great merit early on but as time has progressed it has become very disappointing. The 1996 was a wonderful wine. Balanced, mouth filling, good fruit density and wonderful blackberry flavours. Penfolds is at its best

Cheese and coffee. Our Cheesemaster James Healey this week provided us with an American New England area Cabot cloth bound cheddar. A cheese James has served before it is always well thought of and has a good medium texture and a nutty sweetness to the palate. The cheese was served with spinach leaves and smoked almonds.

With cheese were the lucky recipient of Dennis Cooper's birthday offering, Delord Bas-Armangnac 1994. An outstanging grape spirit. Sadly there was no one there who was born in 1994 but it would have been wasted on them anyway!

Spencer Ferrier provided us a Forsyth’s Kings Blend coffee which is a blend of three countries. A very good coffee to serve strong and black it had real body.