[Only two photographs this week as the Number 1 photo man, James Hill, was away and the backup was CoTD]

For this June wine lunch James Tinslay was on the pans assisted by David Madson.

Canapés. Two canapés were served. Firstly pork/beef meatballs roasted and provided with a spicy paprika/cumin/chilli dipping sauce. The second was Chinese style barbecued pork, water chestnut and spring onion on a crisp cracker.

Aperitif wine. The main aperitif wine today was the Elderton Riesling 2009. A fine Riesling at its peak, but will probably stay there for many years. We also enjoyed a couple of bottles of Richmond Grove Riesling 2006, as well as a Lustau Manzanilla sherry.

Main course. The main today was slow cooked pork neck stuffed with a spiced Italian porkmince, pistachio nuts and sage. The 13 kg of pork neck had been slow cooked for about 6 hours and hence was quite succulent. This was served on a kumara mash with a sauce made from the 24 pears and onions used in the slow roast. This is accompanied by crisp broccoli. As this writer was the chef of the day, I can only say it appeared well received.

The wines. Paul Ferman’s selections for the day were based on a theme of single grape varieties to show off the differences. Only the Pinot Noir was served masked.

• Orlando St Hugo 2004
• Argiano Brunello di Montalcino (Sangiovese) 2007
• Prunotto Barolo (Nebbiolo) 2008
• Yannick Amirault La Source (Cabernet Franc) 2010
• Freycinet Pinot Noir 2011
• By Farr Shiraz 2011

Taking the wines as to groups, the first was fascinating. The St Hugo was a big hit with its lovely rich but not extracted fruit. Member Phil Laffer who was present at the lunch was the winemaker responsible for this wine at the time. The next two were classic Italian styles at the very top of the tree but poles apart in just about every aspect. The Brunello was drinking beautifully with light tight tannins and may go on for many years. The Barolo was a forward modern style with the rusty meniscus that you would expect from Nebbiolo. A great trio.

For the next set, the Cabernet Franc seemed a little unsettled with a metallic taste. The Tasmanian Pinot Noir was of a lighter strawberry fruit style but well-made if a little simple. However, a good Australian lighter Pinot. The By Farr Shiraz divided the room. It was elegant and the perfume of the 5% Viognier showed through very strongly. It seemed a little bit prematurely aged and the Viognier may have been overplayed.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey had selected a Perenzin Formajo Ciock al Vino Rosso from Veneto. The young cheese is kept in fermenting grape must for 10 days which imparts a mildly spicy wine-like flavour to this semi-hard cheese. Some of the grape skins are retained on the rind creating a striking visual element on the plate. Much enjoyed and a first for most.

Spencer Ferrier in absentia provided us Papua New Guinea peaberry. It. It was of a sweeter style but full-bodied. Peaberry is the round single seed produced in the coffee fruit occurring in less than 5% of the harvest. Again, this coffee was made with a little extra dosing which was much liked.

We had some 45 people for this wine lunch and the chef of the day thanked his assistant David as well as the kitchen staff led by Pete for their attentive and robust assistance.