The Society’s 2017 Chef of the Year, Steve Liebeskind, was in the kitchen today assisted by a Graham Fear. Steve has set such high standards that there was much expected of him today.

Canapés. We had two canapés to start and there was a nice contrast between the two. The photographs above often give a better idea then the description but the first was a tuna and white bean paste on rounds of bread with a slice of olive on each. There was a touch of chili in the paste to liven it up. Next came some delightful crispy puff pastry shells spread with a goat’s cheese curd and half of a baked cherry tomato. The cherry tomatoes were wonderful as Steve applied some sumac during the roasting to provide a really tangy finish. Both starters were very good.

Aperitif wine. We began the wines today with our habitual Sherry and the Mount Horrocks Watervale Clair Riesling 2009. It was in wonderful condition and was highly regarded by members present in the little scrums around the room.

Main course. Serving rack of lamb for even a relatively small number can be difficult trying to get the just cooked tenderness and colour even across batches. Steve started off by brining the lamb to retain its weight and succulent character. Those familiar with brining know that it can take up quite a bit of space, let alone dealing with the bones in the racks.

Th result was truly wonderful. The lamb had also been smoked for about 10 to 15 minutes, which was enough to have the smoky flavour very evident. The sauce was honey, mustard seeds, white wine vinegar, marmalade, fresh mint all of which caramelised with macadamia nuts. The potato mash had a touch of the wasabi and there were pickled carrots, pan-fried cauliflower and asparagus to round out the plate. A sprig of rosemary topped off each meal.

High praise was received from those who spoke and it was another fine meal from Steve.

The Wines.

• Huntington Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (screwcap, 13.8%)
• Wynns Black Label 2001 (cork, 14%)
• Tamar Ridge Pinot (screwcap, 13%)
• McWilliams Barwang 842 Chardonnay 2007 (screwcap, 13%)

Paul served us two Australian Cabernets to begin. The Huntington came across as a soft sweeter Australian wine with no extraction or heat. It was enjoyable and in general the preferred of the two Cabernets. The Wynns should have offered so much more from a very good year. There was good structure and fine tannins but there was bottle variation and whilst none of the wines could be said to be truly corked there was evidence of all the wines being cork affected to some extent and just dull. A bit disappointing as many of us have enjoyed the 2001 in the past without these issues.

The 2009 Pinot from Tasmania was a good average Pinot and enjoyable drinking with the cheese. It lost out to the Barwang Chardonnay which was a better match but which some thought was a bit heavy on the oak.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey presented the cheese selected by the then acting Cheesemaster, Gary Linnane. This was Guilloteau Buche d’Affinois and came in blocks as opposed to the rounds we have had previously. A silky and creamy cheese but some thought it lacked a little flavour although it had a wonderful texture. Steve provided a very interesting and flavoursome salad the content of which still needs to be clarified.

Spencer Ferrier in absentia provided Indian peaberry style coffee in a light to medium roast presentation. Peaberry beans are smaller, denser and relatively rare. Very enjoyable.

The excellent lunches just keep rolling along and today was no exception.