It was a Presidential prandium, with Peter Kelso in the kitchen, assisted by Martin McMurray. Inauguration was a choice of canapes: anchovy puffs made on choux pastry with a subtle hit of anchovy (memo to chef: more next time) and a “salmon salad” with fresh salmon, spring onions and green capsicum dressed up with a splash of mayo and some paprika, served on lavosh bites. Well supported by wine master of the day Charles Hargrave’s choices of a 2007 Tyrrells Vat 1, in terrific condition showing some toasty notes, and a 2012 Pewsey Vale Riesling, surprisingly developed with a phenolic edge and not for long keeping. There was, of course, the usual Lustau sherry, this week the excellent Fino.

For the main event, Peter put Australia first by presenting ½ of the Oz flag in the form of seared kangaroo strip loins served on a bed of spiced roasted root vegetables, baby carrots, baby beets and red onion, with a piece of zucchini on the side and a yoghurt dressing. The meat, reliably handled in the kitchen by the irreplaceable Leo, was in the main suitably rare and the veg, despite murmurings from beetroot opponents, colourful and tasty on the plate. The accompanying wines both went well, a 2010 Giovanni Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo probably a better match, with fine tannins and youthful fruit, than the 2012 Fraser Gallop cabernet from Margaret River, showing good regional fruit bit a bite of firm tannins on the finish.

We stayed local with the cheese from James Healey: an aged Heidi gruyere from Victoria. Beneath a hard rind was a firm but friendly paste with great nutty flavour. It called for, and got, some big reds, In the shape of a 2010 Seppelt Benno shiraz from Bendigo giving an attractive perfume on the nose and rich soft tannins; and the Entity shiraz from ex-Penfolds winemaker John Duval, a brassy Barossa in the Penfolds style with heaps of wood and ripe fruit balanced by evident tannins.