The cooler weather is definitely with us at last, and no doubt contributed to a disappointing attendance of 32 at lunch. In the kitchen was Martin McMurray, assisted by Peter Kelso, Paul Ferman was on wines, Ross MacDonald on cheese and an absent Spencer Ferrier in charge of coffee..

Canapes were some old time but ever popular salmon gravlax, served on toasts and some rice crackers with toppings of crème fraiche and salmon roe, and mustard dill sauce. Accompanying them was the last remnants of our 2002 Rothbury semillon, and it will not be missed, with even the best bottles thin and tired. Thank heavens for the ever-reliable Lustau amontillado sherry also on offer.

The main course was thickly sliced seared then baked pork fillets which came to the table moist and tender under a good demi-glace sauce. Also on the plate was a melange of vegetables: glazed carrots, lightly steamed green beans with a strongly vinegar-influenced walnut sauce and braised celery with apple slices (for the pork, you know). Great colour and some good mainstream flavours. Served with it were a choice of 2013 Tellurian marsanne from Heathcote, big and sweetish with 14% alcohol, but a good fruit salad palate and length to go with the dish; and a 2008 Hahndorf Hill blaufrankisch from the Adelaide Hills, pleasant enough but certainly not the Austrian pinot as touted, and a bit hard for the food.

We were spoiled again with the cheese, this week a superb Papillon Roquefort, wonderfully soft and creamy with the expected, but not excessive, salty ewes' milk lactic character. A simple green leaf salad with a good tart but not acid vinaigrette was all that was required. It was a step up in quality with the accompanying wines, in the form of a 2004 Burton McLaren Vale shiraz and a 2002 Rufus Stone shiraz from Heathcote. The Burton unanimously won out, with its rich fruit and drying tannins matched by some elegance on the palate and finish; whereas the Heathcote, while equally flavoursome, was a touch overripe and straightforward. A touch of a basic French Sauterne left over from another function was passed around to vindicate the Wine Master's view that stickies are a better match for a blue cheese.

The coffee was acceptable, but unidentified.