5 December 2017 - CoTD David Madson

This lunch was the last mixed lunch of the year as we welcomed our better halves. David Madson was back in the kitchen today assisted by newish member Peter Fitzpatrick and James Tinslay. David made a name for himself earlier in the year by cooking a dish that could be described using the “S” word, salad. The watermelon and pork belly salad was much enjoyed and certainly set few of us rethinking our compass.

Canapés. Two canapés started the day, both topped with pearls made of balsamic vinegar. These pearls are striking to the eye and add a real touch of flavour and acid to a meal. First off was a combination of cherry tomato and bocconcini served in a spoon topped with the pearls. The other was home-made baba ganouj topped with rare lamb loin again topped with the aforesaid pearls served on a crisp bread base.

Both the canapés were made in quite large numbers and yet there was only a handful left at the end which must be testament to hunger or quality and being part of the team that day I will pump for the latter.

Aperitif wine. Our Winemaster has a range of single bottles of wine in the wine cooler at the Royal Exchange of Sydney and so we enjoyed a range of these, but the aperitif wines were anchored by the Aubert Rose Champagne which, while entry-level, was very serviceable and enjoyed.

Main course. Whilst duck was on the menu the week before, the comparison between the two would be meaningless. This was a duck ragu and many were scratching their heads as to the last time pasta had been served at lunch. These ducks had been dissected with the backbone removed, pan fried and then slow cooked before stripping the meat to add to the ragu sauce. The ragu contained carrots, onion, garlic and all the usual suspects. The ragu was left simmering and then left overnight to allow the flavours to integrate. The pasta was fresh and was of the fettuccine style.

Comments from the floor were very positive as it was a good concentration of flavour and the duck was not overpowered by any ingredient of the dish. Well done David Madson.

The Wines.

• Cos Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily DOCG) 2011
• Freycinet Pinot Noir 2011
• Metrat Chiroubles 2012
• Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2010

For this lunch, Paul Furman had selected all reds, somewhat of a change from previous lunches. The Sicilian wine was 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. This wine from Cos is the only DOCG of the style, aged in terracotta only. There was a purity and freshness with gripping tannins but lovely to drink. The Tasmanian Pinot was a medium bodied and relatively complex wine for an Australian Pinot. Good concentration with fine-grained tannins. Both fine wines

The cheese wines, the Beaujolais and the Coldstream Hills provided quite a contrast. The Beaujolais was a little acid sharp and lacking balance. Not unenjoyable but not a notable example of Chiroubles. The Coldstream Hills from Yarra was quite floral with a plum and cherry background. At 7 years of age, enjoyable but relatively simple.

Cheese and coffee. Cheese today was selected by James Healey, but in his absence, was presented by Gary Linnane. It was Ossau-Iraty from the Pyrenees region of France, but in origin a Basque cheese. The texture was uniformly smooth, close and dense and yet supple. Flavours are sweet and nutty.

Coffee from Spencer Ferrier, was Ethiopian and generally liked. The servings on the day were a little larger with Spencer investing in some larger plungers for our enjoyment.

Compliments of Tony Scott we enjoyed a desert wine being a Chateau D’Aydie Pacherenc Du Vic Bilh 2010. This wine is from South West France and made from Petit Manseng. It was a richly sweet wine with stone fruit characters, think peach and apricot, citrus and sweet spice. At 7 years of age it was showing well.

President Keith Steele closed the lunch with a reminder that the next lunch was the “last supper” for 2017.

28 November 2017 - C'sOTD Ted Davis and Gareth Evans

This week we were fortunate to have as our cooking team the high standing Ted Davis and Gareth Evans duo in the kitchen. Over the years they have produced some memorable meals and the number of members and guests on this occasion were high with these expectations.

Canapés. To start off the day. Ted and Gareth provided us with two canapés. The first was Ted’s home hickory-smoked Woy Woy sea mullet with a little crème fraiche topped with a little chilli infused salmon roe and a bit of decorative garlic chive on Pasteles Bakehouse pastry shells. They debated serving the roe as a separate item, but it was dynamite hot on its own. Responding to a comment on salt levels they agreed a little more salt may have been in order.

To follow was a ‘poultry haggis’, seasoned (allspice and a bit of nutmeg and black pepper) and chopped chicken hearts, liver, onion and steel-cut oats. This was a Gareth experiment and served in pastry cases from the same provider.

Both were well received for both their presentation, innovation and taste.

Aperitif wine. The main aperitif wine today was the Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2009. Although there was a sprinkling of the Mount Horrocks Riesling 09 and the Denmar Estate Chardonnay 2010, both of the latter wines having been enjoyed in recent weeks. The Vasse Felix under screwcap was impressive with good acid and a crisp dry finish. At 8 years of age it was drinking beautifully and is not about to fall off a cliff.

Main course. The presentation of the main course was magnificent and surprising. We have been told that were having duck, but we didn’t quite expect to have duck like this. I could not describe the meal as well as the chefs. So here is a direct quote:

The crepinettes (faggots to some!) were a labour of love, mostly for Ted. Slow cooked ducks, meat taken off and added back to mince, fat separated off and used for basting in the oven, and the carcases turned into the reduction sauce with a bit of red wine and brandy. The crepinette stuffing, meat and mince, had a bit of softened onion, and seasoned with a touch of allspice, rolled in pig caul fat and roasted.  Served with beetroots, using the whole plant – root segments, after poaching in red wine and red wine vinegar, they were basted in a bit of orange juice and butter, and was the chopped stalks and wilted leaves.  The spicy duck tongue (and beak) was obtained from a Chinese BBQ spot. Ted wanted to use as a canape but was finally persuaded to put on the main plate.

The beak had a number of thinking was a bit too big for a duck, some guessing it was sourced from a goose. Much praise for this meal indeed.

The Wines.

• Tyrrells Vat 6 Pinot Noir 2010
• Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir (Tasmania) 2000
• Lowe Block 5 Shiraz 2009
• Yannick Amirault Bourgueil La Petite Cave (Loire) 2009
• Lupe Cholet Beaune Avaux (1er Cru) 2001
• Lupe Cholet Charmes Chambertin (Grand Cru) 2002

A quick glance at this list makes you wonder where our Winemaster was headed with the non-Pinot Noirs. In pairs, the Tyrrells Pinot from the Hunter looked insipid in the glass but like Nebbiolo, you cannot judge a Pinot by its colour. It was however a very elegant wine and more so than the Tasmanian Pinot Noir, which at 17 years of age had lost most of its fruit and was past its best. Except for one bottle of the latter wine being corked the remainder were in reasonable condition but just left too long before consuming.

The pairing of the Mudgee Shiraz from the premium Block 5 with the Bourgueil (predominately Cabernet franc) was interesting. The Lowe wine was surprisingly elegant and only of medium body. Many thought it went well with the duck based main. The Loire Valley wine on the other hand was just a little unbalanced and some felt it was carrying a number of faults although still drinkable. It just felt a little dumb in comparison to the fine Mudgee wine.

The final two were of course from the same Burgundian maker with one being a Premier Cru and the other a Grand Cru. On the day many thought that the Premier Cru was drinking the better of the two and seemed to have a little more body. The Grand Cru however, may have the legs, body and the subtlety to continue to improve for some time.

Cheese and coffee. Cheese today by James Healey was a Cropwell Bishop Shropshire blue. The untouched orange round looked inviting (see above). Lusting after the cheese can be as much fun as eating it. The cheese is made very similar way to Stilton with a creamy texture and a striking orange colour that comes from the addition of annatto, a natural food colouring

Coffee from Spencer Ferrier, in absentia, was a high-class offering from Rwanda. His notes explained that until recently coffee from this country was pretty ordinary, but it has entered the realm of high-class coffees. It was strong and some at the lunch felt that it was too strong and not their ‘is cup of tea’ is so to speak.

We were awash in wine gifts again today with Gareth donating 6 bottles of de Bortoli Deen Vat Series All Rounder Dry Botrytis Semillon 2002. This rose looking wine had a wonderful depth of flavour with differing views of the how it went with the cheese. It was quite an unusual wine and a real treat for many.

We also enjoyed some bottles of Andrew Buller Cannobie Tokay provided by our birthday member, Nigel Burton. This Tokay managed to brilliantly walk the gap between cloying and too dry and was much enjoyed with the coffee.

Ted Davis gave a very entertaining presentation on the food and its sourcing. He admitted to causing some grief for Gareth yesterday after he was lost for a few hours yesterday morning trying to source vegetables at Mangrove Mountain. This led to Gareth calling the police, seeking to find him. Apparently, this was all for the sake of having some fresh beetroots which we enjoyed with the main. We gather Gareth was not looking forward to cooking this lunch by himself.

Being a wine luncheon, our Winemaster, Paul Ferman closed lunch and thanked our chefs for their tremendous effort.

21 November 2017 - CoTD Leigh Hall

We had Leigh Hall in the kitchen today ably assisted by Denis Redfern. Leigh had just come back from three weeks in Iran where he obviously sampled an extensive amount of Iranian and Middle Eastern delights. Wine was clearly not one of these. Leigh provided me with detailed notes re the dishes served today which are included below under the appropriate heading.

We also had wines or spirits from two members for their birthdays. Starting with the big one, Wal Edwards, who bought out his usual rum in preparation for his 101st birthday on the following day. More of that later. Also celebrating a birthday this week and donating wine was Roger McGuinness.

Canapés.

• Kashk-e bademjan - eggplant, kashk [Persian yoghurt], onion, turmeric, garlic, mint, walnuts
• Baba ghanouj - eggplant, tahini, lemon, garlic, paprika
• Hummus and beetroot - chickpeas, beetroot, tahini, garlic, cumin, lemon

This was a beaut range of starters. The beetroot hummus stood out for its stunning colour, whilst the eggplant dishes were tasty and demonstrated what a versatile vegetable it really is.

Aperitif wine. Thanks to the generosity of Roger McGuinness we enjoyed six bottles of Piper Heidsieck Brut to celebrate his birthday. The still wine supplied by the Society was the Denmar Estate Chardonnay 2010, a wine that has been served many times before. The Chardonnay is a rich Hunter Valley style and one that is drinking at its peak

Main course.

Ghormeh Sabzi was the main served with two types of rice as detailed below.

            Lamb, onion, dried limes, turmeric, tomato, red kidney beans, turmeric

            Fenugreek, Leighks, spinach [Main flavours from fenugreek and desiccated limes]

            Chelo - aged Persian rice with saffron

            Pelou - aged Persian rice with almond, currents, barberries, mint

For most in the room, this was the first time we had eaten this meal or the first time that we realised what it was. There was obviously a labour of love put into its preparation. Having said that, there were a number of people around the room who felt that the dish was very dominated by the dessicated limes, an ingredient, that many had not used themselves. Leigh subsequently explained that he had used some 30 limes and acknowledged the flavour was very strong. Notwithstanding this, a very interesting dish.

Leigh also explained some details about his time in Iran and its food. Of particular interest was that he explained that at homes you are normally served stews whilst as a tourist, eating out, you invariably had kebabs which he found to become quite boring after a while compared to the diversity of stews. 

The Wines.

• Combier Crozes-Hermitage 2012 (cork, 12.5%)
• Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2010 (screwcap, 14%)
• Duval Plexus Marsanne Viognier Roussanne 2015 (screwcap, 12.5%)
• Coriole Sangiovese 2012 (screwcap, 14%)

Leigh had requested some Shiraz to go with the lamb and we had one from northern Rhône and one from the Hilltops district in New South Wales. The Rhône wine was an interesting reminder of how robust Crozes-Hermitage can be. Whilst lacking the finesse of Cote Rotie or Hermitage, it has a robust Shiraz character with drying tannins. The Clonakilla Hilltops wine was excellent. Whilst a long way short in price of the now $120 Shiraz Viognier it always comes up strongly. It was dry, savoury and luscious. Drinking well but will go on.

With the cheese, we enjoyed a red and a white. The Duval mix of white Rhône varieties was rich as would be expected but it was also showing youth and needs some time to develop. Not a wine for everybody as comments indicated. The Australian Sangiovese from Coriole was a lighter style as befits this grape and had some savoury characteristics but at the end the day was an Australian take on Chianti. Coriole has now made over 20 vintages of this wine and whilst some in the room cheered the fact that this was the last of this vintage in the cellar I thought it a good match with the excellent cheese.

Cheese and coffee.

James selected for us today a cheese that is a favourite of many, Taleggio. You can see in the photograph above the wonderful layer of mould that has spread across the large square shape of this fromage. This cheese from Mauri is guaranteed by the unique maturation process that benefits from a gift of the territory, the natural caves. These caves provide the perfect microclimate for maturing cheese and hence the mould. It was a first-class cheese, mild, delicate and melting in the mouth.

Coffee by Spencer Ferrier was from Cuba. Whilst not having visited Cuba I understand that the Cubans are crazy about the coffee although we don’t get to see much of their beans in Australia. It was a relatively robust coffee but the dosing by Spencer poured as a big but aromatic coffee.

Leigh had provided as afters, fresh dates, figs soaked in rose water and Persian delight. This put a smile on all faces in conjunction with his gift for lunch of the Bailey’s Classic Muscat to go with these delights.

101 and not out.

The elephant in the room today was the impending 101st birthday of one Walter Edwards. Wal was in fine form and gave one of his rousing presentations for which he received warm applause and congratulations.

In a fine deed, Paul Ferman had located and purchased a bottle of Chateau Mouton Baron Phillippe 1916. Paul removed a very black cork and each table was offered a glass to share for the toast. Great to try but Wal is in far better condition than this grand label of the 1916 vintage. See the photo below.

Wal then tried to do some harm by serving his Inner Circle Pot Distilled Premium Rum at an eye-watering 75.9% alcohol. It creeps up on you! Thank you, Wal.

Closure.

President Keith Steele closed the lunch today noting the jovial atmosphere of this wonderful occasion. He congratulated Leigh Hall for doing something genuinely different for us.

14 November 2017 - CoTD Robert Rae

Fresh back from a sojourn in the UK, Robert Rae was in the kitchen today with assistance from Hilton Chapman.

Canapés. Robert and Hilton had two canapés for us today, the first being Tasmanian smoked salmon on bread rounds with a tartare, yogurt, mayo, lemon, pimento and dill sauce. The next was a blend of smoked trout and smoked salmon served on crisp biscuits. This seafood introduction to the lunch kept in theme with the overall meal that was to follow. Comments on the smoked salmon suggested it was of the highest quality.

Aperitif wine. Pierre Luneau-Papin Mucadet 2010 was our main kick-off wine with some backup support from the Mount Horrocks Riesling 2009 and the Lustau Fino. The Muscadet is a wine normally consumed at a relatively young age for its freshness (the grape is Melon de Bourgogne) and in this case at 7 years of age under cork there was some bottle variation. The good ones were still freshish although darker in colour, whilst the others were dumb and passed their best.

Main course. Robert had promised us a deconstructed seafood pie based on a recipe by Rick Stein, and that is what we got. There was much nodding around the tables about the seafood ingredients and the chowder that accompanied it. Some commented on the strong chowder base, another thought it was a little bland and I suppose that is why we talk about food.

Robert went through the extensive list of ingredients including Australian salmon, flathead New Zealand mussels, fresh calamari, frozen prawns, sashimi grade frozen scallops from Japan and mushrooms. The plates on my table were quite clean when collected and this meal was much appreciated in terms of quality and it was something a little different from recent meals. Each serving was topped with an individually made (on the day) fish-shaped puff pastry which can be seen in the photograph above.

The Wines.

• Lindemans HV Semillon Bin 0755 2007
• Salomon Kogl Riesling 2011
• Massolino Dolcetto 2016
• Glaetzer Advance Pinot 2012

The Semillon and the Riesling were a good pair to serve with the seafood as it satisfied different needs with the food. The 2007 Semillon was as expected austere with good acid and a long finish. Our winemaker members rated it good to very good. The other approach to the food was the Austrian Riesling which was beautifully dry but with more body and depth with a mirage of sweetness. Both good wines and there was a split between each punters favourite.

Some thought the highlight wines were the reds served. The 2012 Pinot was very elegant wine with a plushness expected of an Australian Pinot, although from the colder climate of Tasmania. The Dolcetto from Piedmont a was a serious wine. Although very young at 2016 it represented one of the newer styles of this grape meant for relatively early drinking, but with a grippy and classic Italian style.

Cheese and coffee. Today we went back to Ireland with James's pick of Durrus from Cork. Durrus is a semi-soft, washed rind cheese and comes in a 1.3 kg wheel. It was mild, buttery and moreish.

Coffee by Spencer Ferrier in absentia, was Peruvian Paraiso Perdido. With a play on words, Spencer explained in his notes that the name meant “paradise lost” but he questioned whether it was named as such because it was a second-best coffee, the paradise blend having been lost. It was however a very good medium roast coffee with a subdued sweetness with caramel overtones.

An excellent lunch with many happy faces.

7 November 2017 Melbourne Cup Lunch- ABC Cucina

A wonderful lunch with thanks to James Hill for his skillful negotiations with ABC Cucina to provide excellent food, service and companionship. 

Paul Ferman's choice of Gosset NV Champagne was a huge success. 

Much fun was had and hats galore but the blokes were a bit reticent.

31 October 2017 - CoTD Graham Fear

[Thanks to those who provided some notes on the lunch in my absence]

This wine lunch was prepared for us by the dynamic duo winners of the Chef of the Year 2016, Graham Fear assisted by Steve Liebeskind. Along with an impressive group of wines the lunch had all the right moves. 

Paul Ferman as Winemaster introduced the lunch by saying he was looking for matches for lamb rather than Cabernet.

Canapes. Two canapes today. Beetroot/spinach cracker biscuits from the UK sourced from DJ’s were topped with a beetroot relish made with cooked beetroot slivers and a balsamic reduction and sugar. Topping was fresh goat’s curd. Any goats cheese and beetroot are a great match.

Second canape was a rerun from two years back. From Graham “they are simple and easy to make. Aldi sell mini German sausages in bottles of around 30 units. The had strips of butter puff around them held in place by a good quality tooth pick that also assisted in eating. A simple spicy tomato relish was used as dipping sauce rather just bottle tomato sauce.”

Aperitif wine

• Henschke Julius Riesling 2002

Main. Cowra Lamb Noisettes were presented with a herb crust made up of Panko bread crumbs, lemon zest, parsley and garlic, lots of salt and pepper and combined with a lemon infused olive oil for moisture. The noisettes were smeared with Dijon mustard before rolling. The trays were cooked for 10 to 12 minutes then rested and cut into portions, and re-laid flat and re-ovened for 3 to 5 minutes more to move them from rare to pink. Vegetables were duck baked potatoes, cauliflower au gratin and asparagus spears. Sauce was a veal stock reduction with some lamb bones.

Wine tasting wines

• Lindemans St George Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
• Penfolds Bin 389 2004
• Lupe Cholet Beaune les Bressandes 2005
• Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello Montalcino (Sangiovese Grosso) 2006
• Guigal St Joseph Vignes de L’Hospice (Syrah) 2007
• Rosemount Mountain Blue Shiraz Cabernet 2006

Some tannin wines in the bunch but once the food was served and the eaten the tannins were less evident. The Brunello, St George and the Blue Mountain appeared to be the picks of day.

Coffee

Spencer in absentia (although he did dose the coffee) presented the first coffee from China that he has seen on the Australian market. Otherwise it is unexceptional, being light, bland and with no flavour notes of interest. The texture is light, there is little finish and very light acidity. It comes from the Yunan region and is the Catimor varietal of Arabica.

Cheese

James Healy provided us with one of the Society's favourite cheeses in La Couronne Fort Aged Comte from Will Studd. Matured in damp underground cellars at Fort Saint Antoine it is richly concentrated with a nutty caramel sweetness. The cheeses was served with raw unsalted nuts and cold nashi pears.

Universally the room thought the wines showed great quality and variety providing us a great tasting. To match that the food was superb.

Moral: Don't miss wine lunches. Sob!

24 October 2017 - CoTD Bill Alexiou-Hucker (HV Lunch)

Another big day for the Wine and Food Society of New South Wales with some 60 people packing the main dining room for Bill Alexiou-Hucker’s lunch featuring the HV gold medal winning wines from the 2017 vintage presented by Bruce Tyrrell. Bill was assisted by Peter “Canapé Master” Manners and Nick Reynolds.

Canapés. Determined to set a record for the number of canapés, today we had four. Going through the range of Greek dolmades, steak tartare, labne with a dukkha crumbs and taramasalata and baked chorizo on toast squares (to quote Bill “not even Google has a recipe for this one …world first ??”) we had a feast both in terms of quality and quantity. Bill gives the Greeks credit for all the world’s good food. Maybe he is right.

Aperitif wine. Appropriate for a Hunter Valley day we started off with the Tyrrells Vat 1 from 1999 and 2000 both under cork. I was expecting massive bottle variation but in the end, there were a couple of lesser bottles but most of them were drinking extraordinarily well. The 1999 was the more abundant in quantity and arguably the better of the two. Both excellent wines and a great way to start the Hunter Valley lunch.

Main course. Given the wines we were going to have today, young Hunter Semillon, Bill was asked to produce a meal that would not overpower the wines. Bill chose chicken and the cut was chicken Maryland. An excellent choice where flavour is concerned rather than the often bland chicken breasts that are easy to eat but often bereft of flavour. The chicken was cooked for about one hour in chicken stock before being removed and coated in a herb and chili fetta “armour” before cooking. The meat was wonderfully succulent and was served on a bed of Israeli couscous with Greek salad. A simple sounding dish but one requiring much work that hit the bull’s-eye with flavour without interfering with the wines.

The Wines - All 2017 vintage

• Hunters Dream Estate Semillon
• Tulloch Wines Hunter River White Semillon
• First Creek Wines Harvest Semillon
• Bimbadgen Signature Palmers Lane Semillon
• Audrey Wilkinson Semillon
• Silkman Wines Reserve Semillon
• Brokenwood Wines Tallawanta Vineyard Semillon
• Tyrrell’s Wines Vat 1 Semillon
• Tyrrell’s Wines Composite Stevens Shiraz (cask sample of Shiraz)
• Tyrrell’s Wines Composite Vat 9 (cask sample of Shiraz)

Bruce Tyrrell in his usual understated way talked us through the 10 wines that he had acquired for us no doubt by means fair and foul from both Tyrrells and his colleagues in the Valley. On this occasion, there were a couple of wineries that were not well known and there was quite a range of price tags. In the whites, at least from those I spoke to, the Silkman, Vat 1 and Bimbadgen and were high on the list. In general, the wines were drinking surprisingly well, and Bruce explained it was not a year of searing acidity but rather a year where there more concern about the pH levels.

The two reds were fascinating. Cask samples taken the day before and bottled for the luncheon, the old “Hunter River Burgundy” label quickly came to mind. Astoundingly easy to drink. No doubt once the ageing and bottling process is complete they will be very different, but it certainly provided much encouragement for the 2017 vintage.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey provided us with a farmhouse cheddar from Devon, England. A very traditional style cheddar it is matured for 18 months to get a full flavoured style without too much acid and was crumbly to the cut. Very enjoyable cheese. This was served with some pickled vegetables which provided an excellent foil to the richness of the cheese. Bill also served the obligatory ouzo infused Turkish delights and a Greek liqueur, Mavrakis Mastica.

Note: the following was provided by a Greek restaurateur (Dennis Xenos from Xenos in Crows Nest) who a few of our members know:

The most famous mastica comes from the island of Chios off the Turkish coast. Only the trees from that island are the most suitable to make the liqueur "Mastiha".To produce it they essentially stab the Mastic trees with a probe and allow the sap to drip and then they collect it and ferment it to produce the drink I believe. In ancient times the sap was allowed to harden and would be used as the original chewing gum that would claim to have healing properties. The Greek word for chewing gum is still 'Mastiha'.

Coffee by Spencer Ferrier, in absentia, was Kenya Karogoto AA one of Spencer’s go-to beans.

Another great lunch and Keith Steele closed the lunch thanking Paul Ferman for organising Bruce and thanking Bruce for his generous effort in sourcing the donated wines.

17 October 2107 - CoTD Steve Liebeskind

The Society’s 2017 Chef of the Year, Steve Liebeskind, was in the kitchen today assisted by a Graham Fear. Steve has set such high standards that there was much expected of him today.

Canapés. We had two canapés to start and there was a nice contrast between the two. The photographs above often give a better idea then the description but the first was a tuna and white bean paste on rounds of bread with a slice of olive on each. There was a touch of chili in the paste to liven it up. Next came some delightful crispy puff pastry shells spread with a goat’s cheese curd and half of a baked cherry tomato. The cherry tomatoes were wonderful as Steve applied some sumac during the roasting to provide a really tangy finish. Both starters were very good.

Aperitif wine. We began the wines today with our habitual Sherry and the Mount Horrocks Watervale Clair Riesling 2009. It was in wonderful condition and was highly regarded by members present in the little scrums around the room.

Main course. Serving rack of lamb for even a relatively small number can be difficult trying to get the just cooked tenderness and colour even across batches. Steve started off by brining the lamb to retain its weight and succulent character. Those familiar with brining know that it can take up quite a bit of space, let alone dealing with the bones in the racks.

Th result was truly wonderful. The lamb had also been smoked for about 10 to 15 minutes, which was enough to have the smoky flavour very evident. The sauce was honey, mustard seeds, white wine vinegar, marmalade, fresh mint all of which caramelised with macadamia nuts. The potato mash had a touch of the wasabi and there were pickled carrots, pan-fried cauliflower and asparagus to round out the plate. A sprig of rosemary topped off each meal.

High praise was received from those who spoke and it was another fine meal from Steve.

The Wines.

• Huntington Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (screwcap, 13.8%)
• Wynns Black Label 2001 (cork, 14%)
• Tamar Ridge Pinot (screwcap, 13%)
• McWilliams Barwang 842 Chardonnay 2007 (screwcap, 13%)

Paul served us two Australian Cabernets to begin. The Huntington came across as a soft sweeter Australian wine with no extraction or heat. It was enjoyable and in general the preferred of the two Cabernets. The Wynns should have offered so much more from a very good year. There was good structure and fine tannins but there was bottle variation and whilst none of the wines could be said to be truly corked there was evidence of all the wines being cork affected to some extent and just dull. A bit disappointing as many of us have enjoyed the 2001 in the past without these issues.

The 2009 Pinot from Tasmania was a good average Pinot and enjoyable drinking with the cheese. It lost out to the Barwang Chardonnay which was a better match but which some thought was a bit heavy on the oak.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey presented the cheese selected by the then acting Cheesemaster, Gary Linnane. This was Guilloteau Buche d’Affinois and came in blocks as opposed to the rounds we have had previously. A silky and creamy cheese but some thought it lacked a little flavour although it had a wonderful texture. Steve provided a very interesting and flavoursome salad the content of which still needs to be clarified.

Spencer Ferrier in absentia provided Indian peaberry style coffee in a light to medium roast presentation. Peaberry beans are smaller, denser and relatively rare. Very enjoyable.

The excellent lunches just keep rolling along and today was no exception.

10 October 2017 - CoTD Mark Bradford

Our mixed lunch today was bought to us by Chef of the Day Prof Mark Bradford with assistance from Gary Patterson. Numbers for the lunch were excellent with over 45 and there was absolutely no disappointment.

Canapés. Between Gary and Mark, we managed to get through three starters. First up was crostini with mascarpone, dill, smoked ocean trout and lemon zest. Mark made this a little in advance and a fresher/firmer base would have enhanced the experience although the flavour was excellent. Next up were the very popular Calabrese bites starring Calabrese salami, basil leaf, bocconcini ball and both cherry and sun-dried tomatoes. These were threaded through a toothpick and warmed and flew off the plates. We then sat down for a chilled summer cream of fennel soup with Parmesan and cream. Very tasty and there were differing opinions as to whether it should have been served slightly warm. Great starters.

Aperitif wine. We had a range of aperitif wines to begin, but the main deal was Aubert Rose NV Champagne. Whilst the Champagne was doing a stunning disappearing feat, we also enjoyed some sherry, Framingham Riesling and Belgravia Merlot. A truly agnostic bunch.

Main course. Mark chose to serve us veal masala. Serving for over 45 people without overcooking the very thin veal may have been a worry for Mark but he did it with aplomb, providing us a crisp exterior with a pink centre. This was served with the usual cream, mushroom and garlic, but on Israeli couscous cooked in beef stock. The green was broccolini sautéed in garlic. Accolades were given and deserved.

The Wines.

• Cos Cerasuolo (Sicily) 2011
• Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2009
• Tyrrells Rufus Stone (Heathcote) 2004 and 2002
• Tatachilla Partners Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2001

The two reds with the main course were excellent for very different reasons. The Sicilian wine, the very elegant, light and long finishing blend of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato, saw no wood and was new to many. Sicily is a high performing wine producer and many of these wines are matured in concrete seeing no oak at all. The Rhône wine being mainly Grenache was bright and flavoursome and Guigal is always great value and many in the room drink this wine. Good combination.

The two vintages of the Heathcote wine spread around the room were old-style Australian Shiraz but with enough age to soften them somewhat. Heathcote have lifted their game since the early 2000’s. The McLaren Vale Cabernet Shiraz at 16 years of age was certainly showing it. Passed its peak it was very soft but lacked intensity and was just a little tired.

Cheese and coffee. Gary Linnane treated the room this week with some French Beaufort cheese, one of the more expensive cheeses we enjoy. It is an alpine cheese from the Savoie region of the French Alps and it is a firm, raw cow’s milk cheese associated with the Gruyère family. A treat.

Gary Linnane was generous in supplying a few bottles of the DB Show Reserve Liquer Muscat NV. Very aged, lost in his cellar, this old De Bortoli was a real treat.

Spencer Ferrier provided both coffee and tea. The coffee was a Brazil Cerrado from Santa Lucia and it was a fine coffee, very flavoursome and a medium finish. The tea was Golden Yunnan a relatively high end black Chinese tea from the Yunnan province in China. Spencer had ground the tea leaves (who knew we could even do that!) prior to adding water and the many people who had tea much enjoyed the option.

Mark gave a thorough breakdown of the meal and his efforts were rewarded with acclaim.

A great day for food, good company and buzz.

3 October 2017 CoTD Jason Hannah - William Blue Dining

Our executive chef of the day, President Keith Steele, organised his mate Jason Hannah from William Blue Dining to prepare us lunch. Jason is the Executive Chef and Head Teacher of the William Blue Dining training facility for apprentice chefs. Assisting Keith was John R Edwards and Jason bought two of his young apprenticeships along to assist him and for the experience in another restaurant.

Canapés. Both canapés originated from Keith Steele, the first being a pork terrine on bread sourced from Victoire topped with pickles and seeded mustard. This was followed by top notch anchovies also on bread.

Aperitif wine. Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling 2008 started us on our journey today with a pretty standard 11% alcohol. One of the many fine facets of Riesling is its relatively low alcohol. The Riesling was showing a little development in its colour and was as expected and excellent example of what the Eden Valley does so well with the grape. The match of acid and fruit saw us drinking this wine at its best.

Main course. Jason had chosen for us today deboned spatchcock roulade with a truffled mince/bread stuffing. The drumettes were not excluded and were deep fried with the skin folded back. This was served with Paris mash, pumpkin purée, pickled golf ball carrots and sugar snaps. The jus was made from the stock of the chicken bones with a touch of vinegar. The presentation, as can be seen above, was excellent and the touch of pickled golf ball carrots was much commented on. The spatchcock meat was succulent and the stuffing matched perfectly.

The Wines.

• Metrat “Cote Rotie” Chiroubles Beaujolais 2012 (cork, 12.5%)
• Anne Gros & Jean-Paul Tollot La Ciaude Minervois (Languedoc-Roussillon) 2012 (cork, 14%)
• Bowen Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (cork, 14.5%)
• Devil’s Lair Cabernet Merlot 2007 (screwcap, 13.5%)

The Chiroubles to start with (which has the confusing handle Cote Rotie) was in excellent condition and was a classic Beaujolais albeit one of higher quality with classic Gamay characteristics. The pairing wine was the Minervois of the same vintage. Languedoc is an often-overlooked area although it is a prodigious producer of wine. With a blend of. Carignan, Syrah and Grenache it relates very well to Australian palates although having drier tannins. The wine was soft and balanced and a good match for the Beaujolais. In fact, they were both well matched to the poultry.

Both the cheese wines were screaming Cabernet and they were both substantial. The Bowen came from the great 2006 year but some saw a little greenness in it, a not uncommon characteristic of Coonawarra. The Margaret River wine had more elegance, but some felt there was a little overuse of oak for the fruit level. Both classic Australian Cabernets.

Cheese and coffee. Our acting Cheesemaster Gary Linnane provided us with Maffra cloth aged cheese with 18 months on the clock. This Gippsland based producer makes a range of cow’s milk cheese with the cloth aged version having a bit more bite and crumbly texture than it stablemates. A wonderful cheddar. Cheese was served with dried apricots and bowls of mixed dried fruit. A good match.

Coffee was by Spencer Ferrier and presented to us by Hilton Chapman. The coffee was Ethiopian and some described as having a buttery character.

Keith invited Jason Hannah to introduce his two young apprenticeships and talk to the food produced for us today. Jason described in detail the food and opinioned that he preferred the Beaujolais with the spatchcock.

Lunch reminded a number of those present that it was time to visit William Blue Dining once again.