Lunch 22 September 2015

It was another great Greek performance from Bill Alexiou-Hucker, helped in the plating up department by Peters Squires and Manners. The aperitifs, or mezes, were a tempting chicken liver pate topped by a dollop of sweet green pistachio paste on toasts, a fetta and spinach frittata served in little squares, some very moreish taramasalata with a black olive topping on toasts and warm handmade dolmades, moist and tasty. To wash them all down, we saw a Thalassitis white from Santorini, made on assyrtiko grapes and finely dry and aromatic, with definite dried herb notes. As backup, there was the 2005 Huntington semillon from Mudgee, good drinking although the fruit is starting to drop out. The main course was a lovely moussaka made on beef and grilled eggplant with potatoes, topped with a béchamel sauce and accompanied by diced zucchini. The advertised Moroccan twist turned out to be pureed dried fruit, which lent a pronounced, slightly heavy, fruit sweetness to the dish; but despite hearty helpings, not too much found its way back to the kitchen. Accompanying the food was a 2012 Agiorgitiko by Gaia, quite tannic and European in style; and a 2009 Dom de Gerovassiliou shiraz/merlot blend, also from Greece, but showing pronounced fruit in a more Oz style. The Greek theme continued into the cheese, Acting Master Gary Linnane supplying an Odysseus barrel-aged fetta from Northern Greece. Made from sheep and goat’s milk, it is aged in wooden barrels and was much less salty and more peppery than the usual tinned variety. It was served drizzled with olive oil and scattered with dried oregano, and with diced and pickled vegetables as an interesting side dish. For wines, it was back to Oz, with a 2006 Epsilon Barossa shiraz, typical of the region with tonnes of sweet fruit and 14.5% alcohol; and a Macquariedale Thomas shiraz from the same year, again typical of a Hunter in the modern style and great drinking, at its best. The coffee came from El Salvador and showed rich chocolate characters in the mouth, with a slightly short finish. But the Armagnac from birthday boy Roger Prior showed no such defect: a rich lingering and penetrating blend containing material back to 1931.

Lunch 8 September 2015

Recently returned from a trek in South America, Leigh Hall returned to the kitchen to produce pork – but strictly of the domesticated variety.

But first, some pleasing canapes in the shape of, first, a lively mix of eggplant and miso on pickled ginger with Japanese seasoning and a flaky biscuit underneath; and, second, a mild but moreish tapenade on the same biscuits, topped with ½ a Kalamata olive for colour and extra flavour. These were washed down by a disappointing 2011 Tim Smith Eden Valley Riesling, with fruit dropping out since its last appearance. No problems with the omnipresent Lustau amontillado sherry.

So, back to that pork, with tenderloins rolled in a stuffing of dried figs, prunes, walnuts, bacon and heaps of garlic, then roasted, sliced and served on a smooth as silk kumera and potato mash with green beans; not to mention a superior jus made from a veal reduction with plenty of red wine and a dark, pleasantly bitter note from the crackling on the pork, which had burnt a bit in the roasting. The pork was done perfectly, and the whole came together well, although matched, at the chef's request, with a couple of big gutsy reds: a 2011 Seghesio zinfandel from Sonoma in California (14.8% alcohol), and a NcLaren Vale blockbuster , the 2009 Olivers Tarango shiraz (14.5%). Both full and fruit-driven, the Sonoma perhaps a little more elegant, but both a bit hot for the food, where something with a bit of acid would have helped to cut the richness of the meat.

The cheese, presented by Gary Linnane in the absence of Ross MacDonald, had most heading overseas, but it was in fact a Berry's Bay Mossvale blue from Gippsland in Victoria; a rich cows' milk cheese in the gorgonzola style, deliciously soft and sticky with a lovely ivory paste and a wonderful lactic blue mould flavour which ended quite sweet. Some simple fresh pear and assorted salted nuts went well with it, as did (some of) the accompanying wines: a2007 Protero merlot which attempted a Pomerol style and failed; a mystery wine which was unveiled as the 2007 Balmoral shiraz from Rosemount in McLaren Vale and drinking beautifully; and a surprise white sticky, a 2011 Ch La Rame from Sainte-Croix-du-Mont near Sauternes, a terrific wine in its own right although maybe a bit young to balance the richness of the cheese. Still, the matching of blue cheese with a sticky was brave, and successful.

Spencer Ferrier's tour of commercial coffees continued with a high end Vittoria blend. High roast in the Italian fashion, it was a tad bitter and finished very short. Back to the real stuff soon, we hope.

Lunch 1 September 2015

'Twas the first day of Spring: what better time to enjoy pre-Spring lamb with the trimmings+ canapes, cheese and coffee + an eclectic selection of wines, all enriched by good company. And so it was, with singleton Bruce Thomas in the kitchen delivering the goods, starting with his trademark lightly cured salmon, with reduced salt, and cream cheese on toasts, together with a sweet and tangy caramellised onion paste, also by Bruce, in baby pastry cases topped by a dab of fresh chevre. The aperitif wine was chiefly an impressively fresh 1999 Tyrrells HVD Semillon, kept for a few years in stainless steel before bottling, and nicely balanced for current drinking; also seen was the familiar Lustau amontillado sherry, nutty and rich as always.

The aforesaid lamb came in the form of racks, pink and juicy, with a coating of chopped parsley, rosemary, thyme and garlic, lifted by the salt 'n'spice of anchovies. Simply presented with a boiled coliban potato, some crunchy beans and a spear or two of early asparagus, it was all about the meat, and accordingly a triumph. Given a wish for cabernet by the chef, Paul Ferman turned on a couple of unlikely wines in the shape of a LA 50/50 S Rhone blend (mainly carignane) from Languedoc and from 2012; and a 2007 blaufrankisch, made in Austria by Oz maker Mac Forbes. Opinions varied, but the consensus was that the chef's choice would have been better: the French showing a dumb nose and good fruit but straightforward in style; the Austrian spicier and more elegant but a bit briary and finishing short.

The quality of the main course continued with a classic 12-month old cloth-wrapped Pyengana cheddar from Tasmania: medium hard with lovely mushroom notes and enough salt to provide length on the palate. With it, another familiar Thomas treat of handmade quince paste, sticky and luscious, plus some fresh walnuts for contrast. The wines rose to the occasion this time: a lightish but scented and chewy 2009 La Zona barbera from King Valley in Victoria; and a mature but statuesque 2001 Chalambar shiraz chiefly from the Grampian region in Victoria and reflecting the quality of the fruit in a supple blend of wood and tannins. It even went well with a full, high roast Illy coffee showing skilful blending with burnt but not bitter notes on the palate.

Wine tasting 25 August 2015

Wine Master Paul Ferman continues his crusade to wean members away from competitive identification of wines towards an evaluation of their style, structure and match with food. To this end, he presented a lineup of 6 masked wines at the monthly tasting: 2 whites (1 French, 1 local), 2 reds of the same grape (1 foreign, 1 local) and another 2 reds of the same grape, again 1 foreign, 1 local. Most had little difficulty with the whites, identified as a 2008 Montmain Chablis and a 2007 Tyrrells Vat 47, both identifiably chardonnay, but the French softer and a bit subdued, whilst the Vat 47 was forward on the nose and palate with lots of fruit and perhaps a bit heavy on the wood. Likewise, the 1st bracket of reds spoke pinot to most and indeed they were: an excellent 2011 Roche de Bellene Volnay showing good fruit in elegant balance with savoury tannins and acid; and a 2011 Freycinet pinot from Tasmania, with a slightly stronger fruit line but made in the cooler climate mould and a pretty smart wine. The 2nd bracket of reds was more enigmatic, but the mention of Italian gave it away: they were a 2008 Nebbiolo d'Alba from Piedmont and a 2007 SC Pannell nebbiolo from the Adelaide Hills: both light in colour and style but with strong tannins indicating a long life and both crying out for food. In fact, all of the wines were at the lighter more savoury end of the style spectrum and supported the accompanying food well

Speaking of which, Denis Redfern in the kitchen, assisted by son Christopher, came up with a deceptively simple chicken fricassee from a recipe by Jacques Pepin, thigh fillets cooked in an aromatic vegetable stock which was thickened to a veloute sauce and served with a piece of homemade short crust pastry (replacing the pie of the original) and beans. Warm and satisfying, it matched the wines to a tee.

Before the main event, Dennis Cooper sent out some welcome canapes: a salt cod mousse in pastry cases topped with salmon roe, and a particularly spicy chorizo chunk on a toothpick with cornichon. The main aperitif was the 1999 Henschke Julius Riesling, bottled under cork and showing it, with a few bottles brown and oxidised, and the best drinking well, but past their peak. There was also a Cape Mentelle sem/sav blend to provide a bit of tang, and the Lustau amontillado sherry (especially good with the heat of the chorizo).

Ross MacDonald produced the reliably well- tended cheese, this time a d'Affinois Campagnier from France, with a deep amber washed rind and the popular buttery and slightly nutty paste. With it were a mix of red and green table grapes, and a bonus bottle of red which differed from table to table.

Spencer Ferrier spoke to the coffee, a commercial Lavazza blend, pointing out the pioneering work of Lavazza in espresso coffee, and the heavier, full flavoured blends favoured in Europe, at the cost of the fresh acid notes often found in single origin beans.

Luncheon August 18th

With the Presidents' dinner looming we  saw  a small number of members gather for our Tuesday lunch.John Rourke stepped in the kitchen in place of Paul Dressler.

The canapes comprised Hare Pate with Juniper Berries and a red currant sauce on top,goose rillettes and cornichons both served on biscotte. This was followed by a generous serve of Foie Gros on brioche.The accompanying wine was a reserve 2013 Meyer Forre Riesling a typical Alsace wine with full palate good typocity long acid line a good balance to the richness of canapes presented.

 John ventured to Normandy where he has recently been travelling for our next course.It was Veal kidneys with a mustard cream sauce accompanied by a buttery mash and spinach. It was well presented the kidneys cooked to perfection with a light rose jus showing around the edge of the mash.Main course wines were 2013 Chateau di Pizay Morgon Gamay and 2010 Oratoire St Martin Cote du Rhone (80% grenache 20% shiraz).Opinion varied on the best wine match with the food with the Morgon edging out the Rhone,the Morgon was a clean classic style with good balance and long finish. The Rhone an OK style a touch plain ready to drink now.

John explained that he followed the "Traiteur" tradition favoured by Escoffier of sourcing the best products to be prepared by chefs for a meal of of equivalent quality.To this end the canapes were thus sourced as will as the spinach,the magic came with veal kidneys perfectly cooked ,pink and retaining  texture.John advised that he kidneys took  three hours to prepare removing fat and sinew.One member commented that the mustard cream sauce brought the dish together beautifully.  

Our cheese master followed with a "Petit Munster"washed rind cheese from the Franche Comte region. A cows milk  cheese it came to the table at room temperature the rind not too pungent the ripe interior was smooth flavoursome and nutty. The cheese wines proved to be members preferred on the day.A 2008 Vasse Felix Cabernet a typical WA cabernet good balance and quality still time to go.The second an 2005 Bowen Estate Cabernet well made and good fruit.The Vasse was favoured.

Our coffee master finished our tour of Ethiopia Yirgacheffe the time from the Konga region strong dried cherry flavour rich on the palate and a long finish. Our chef provided a dark Lindt chocolate to go with the coffee and our cellar master finished the day of with a Taylors Port. 

Lunch 11 August 2015

This week saw a cast of thousands in the kitchen, starring the reliable Peter Manners (fresh from competing in the City to Surf) and featuring son Andrew with support roles by Nick Reynolds and Neil Galbraith. We kicked off with some terrific duck liver pate on crispbread and simple grilled slices of mild chorizo, with or without supporting biscuit. The main accompanying wine was a 2010 Belgravia Chardonnay from Orange, fresh and showing sweet fruit, but lacking in intensity and length. There was also the predictably great Lustau amontillado sherry on offer for the quick or lucky few.

For the main course, Peter was duck hunting in North Africa and presenting well dissected and varying pieces of that bird – breast, thigh fillets, legs – treated with a Moroccan spice rub, then baked and appearing on the plate inside a ring of tender couscous with peas and chunks of dried dates and apricots for verisimilitude. Good flavours in the duck, although some pieces were a bit chewy on the bone, a spectacular presentation and some good Moroccan notes . A bit of harissa heat might have added to this. Vinously, we were given two masked bottles, both with Austrian themes but one local, one not. They were a 2010 Salomon shiraz-viognier from an Austrian maker on the Fleurieu Peninsula in SA, and a 2009 Triebaumer blaufrankisch from Austria. Most preferred the Oz, showing good balance of fruit and tannin/acid, whilst the import, made from Austria's answer to pinot noir, was a bit thin and lacking in fruit.

Moroccan cheese was mercifully abjured in favour of a L'Artisan Mountain Man washed rind cheese from Timboon in Victoria. Made in small (400g) rounds from local organic milk, this showed a good pale orange rind and nice sticky paste, but fairly lacking in washed rind character and flavour, perhaps because a bit young. A Bhuja snack mix was served with it, moving from Morocco to India.

The matching wines were interesting: a 2007 Devil's Lair cabernet merlot from Margaret River showing lots of the classic, slightly minty flavours typical of the region; and a 2000 Coriole McLaren Vale shiraz, surprisingly elegant for its age and region and drinking at its best.

With the coffee, made from Ethiopian washed beans and showing complex depth of flavour in the mouth with a firm, slightly woody, finish, Spencer Ferrier gave us a final palate-cleanser ; Little chewy macaroons laced with a semi-lethal dose of cayenne pepper. A memorable finish to a top meal.

Lunch 4 August 2015

Gary Linnane, with help from James Hill, was wielding the pans to produce what turned out to be appropriate food on a bitter winter's day. It may have been the weather which caused a disappointing rollup, a pity for those who missed out on Gary's offerings. We started with some marinated button mushrooms, testing members' skills at spearing with toothpicks, a gentle egg mayo topped by a suitably salty ortiz anchovy on crisp biscuits and moist and firm smoked ocean trout with mascarpone on blinis – all good and let down a bit by a 2011 Warramate Yarra Valley riesling, an average example of the style with a shortage of fruit and life. No such problems with a nutty dry amontillado sherry from Lustau, also on offer.

It was off to Morocco for the main course, a slow-cooked diced lamb shoulder with eggplant,tomatoes, onions and an undertone of roasted cumin, simply matched with pearl or Israeli couscous. The meat was sweet and soft and the combination clean and satisfying, especially when a spoonful of yoghurt and cucumber sambal presented seperately was added. A couple of interesting wines were on offer, the 1st a 2009 Blue Pyrenees cabernet showing distinctive cabernet red berries but lacking intensity and length. The second, served masked, had many going cabernet franc, with strong briary characters and cool climate delicacy, so surprising when unveiled as a 2009 Huntington cabernet from Mudgee.

The English weather was matched by a good hearty English-style cheese in the form of a Maffra cloth-aged cheddar from Gippsland. It was relatively young and showed a soft paste with obvious cheddar bite which will develop with age. A nicely bitter salad of radicchio and cos leaves was balanced by a balsamic dressing. Both were well served by a brace of older wines, a 2004 Rufus Stone shiraz from Heathcote in Victoria and a 2001 Tatachilla Partners cabernet/shiraz from McLaren Vale. The 1st was better, a high alcohol of 15% not adversely affecting the balance of a big sweet red at its peak; whilst the Tatachilla was past its best but still drinking well for what was a commercial release.

Finally, Spencer Ferrier arranged the 1st in a series of coffees from Ethiopia, this one a Sidamo bean showing perhaps under-roasted lightness in the mouth but some interesting fruity characters and a herbal finish.

wine tasting 28 July 2015

Hilton Chapman celebrated a birthday milestone by presenting an individual but high quality line up of reds from the Society cellar, and provided a single malt whisky to boot.

We got under way with the 2004 Tyrrells Steven Semillon. A bit of bottle variation was inevitable, but most were fresh and zesty, with developed fruit and plenty of acid to keep it alive. From the kitchen, chef of the day Keith Steele, with help from Gary Patterson, provided a tasty terrine on toasts topped by a choice of dill pickle or sour cherry, and pieces of sweet and oily smoked eel on crispbread.

It was a good introduction to a terrific main course of beef bourgignon, made on chuck steak with onion, mushroom and spices including anchovies for salt. Simply served with well- made mash and suitably crunchy green beans, it was a great accompaniment to the wines, as well as being moreish in its own right.

The tasting wines were:

2008 Lindemans Pyrus Bordeaux blend, served masked and generally considered too young

2008 John Duval Entity Barossa shiraz, big and plenty of alcohol but with elegant tannins to generate complexity

2003 Tyrrells Vat 9 shiraz, a favourite with the Hunter aficionados and noticeably lighter in style with its next stablemate

1998 Tyrrells House Block shiraz, lovely drinking in the older Hunter style

1998 Seppelts Drumborg cabernet, a cooler style showing top fruit and no sign of age with a length that goes on and on

1996 Lindemans Limestone Ridge shiraz/cabernet, also served masked, a favourite with many, drinking at its peak, soft and mature.

The quality was such that no wine emerged as favourite, and it was one of those occasions where rankings are odious. Suffice it to say that no glasses were left undrained.

The cheese maintained the standard, and it was local: a Tarago River Jensens Red from Gippsland. The slightly crunchy washed rind lived up to the name in colour, enveloping a paste in perfect condition, nutty and creamy. Grapes and dried apricots were the effective accompaniment, along with the tasting wines, and a wee dram of The Macallan single malt from Speyside in Bonnie Scotland which commemorated Hilton's 60th in memorable fashion. The coffee provided a fitting conclusion, Strictly Hard Beans (the highest grade) from Guatemala, rich with mouth-filling flavour and a hint of nuttiness.

Lunch 21 July 2015

A French flavour continued after Bastille Day last week, with Graham Fear turning on beef bourgignon and Paris mash, But first, with assistance from Steve Liebeskind, he had some smashing entrees, particularly a spanner crab mayonnaise (with fresh crab wrangled by Graham from a grateful client) served on ceramic spoons; also a very good foie gras imported from France and smoked salmon with mascarpone in novelty edible pastry spoons. The principal aperitif wine was the 2006 Anne Semillon from McWilliams, mature and drinking well albeit straightforwardly . There were others, including the seasonally popular amontillado sherry from Lustau.

The main course had been advertised as burgundian pie, but what we got was superior beef bourgignon in a bowl topped by a crisp cap of puff pastry. No matter: the meat was wagyu, cooked with speck pieces but without thickeners in a mirepoix of aromatic vegetables with plenty of good (WA) red wine and herbs, notably bay leaves and thyme. Great consistency and flavour, and served with a separate bowl of severely artery-clogging Paris Mash, smooth and oozing dairy. Both ideal on a fine but cold winter's day. The matching wines, served masked, were from the cool climate end of the shiraz spectrum: a 2011 Jamsheed syrah from the Grampian area in Victoria, and a 2010 Clonakilla Hilltops shiraz from near Young. Both had the elegance and pepper influences of cool climate grapes, the Clonakilla being bigger and better balanced, the Jamsheed showing some green fruit characters.

We were still (just) in France for the cheese, an Ossau Iraty ewes' milk number from the Basque area in S-W France. Inside a hard crust was a moist pale semi-hard paste with oily, nutty flavours, a touch of lanolin and a lovely granular texture. It was well matched with a salad of sliced pear, walnuts and watercress dressed with a balsamic dressing, and with a contrasting set of reds: a soft earthy Macquariedale Thomas shiraz of 2003 from the Hunter; and an inky, hot and porty Kalleske Pirathon shiraz of 2007 from the Barossa, featuring an alcohol count of 15%.

The coffee was an unidentified house blend from Forsyths, good rich chocolate in the mouth balanced by some acid notes but a relatively short finish.

Lunch 14 July 2015 - Bastille Day

Yes, it was Bastille Day, and a French flavour pervaded the lunch, starting with a terrific rendition of the Marseillaise on trumpet from Paul Thorne (although the same cannot be said for the accompanying "singing" from the assembly). By way of relief, Martin McMurray with Peter Kelso in the kitchen provided cups of French onion soup with inserted rounds of toasted sourdough baguette and gruyere cheese – a bit messy to handle, but good flavour and texture. The main aperitif was the 2008 Tyrrells Steven semillon, drinking extremely well, with the usual Lustau sherry – the amontillado particularly good with the soup; a pastis, a kir royale and sundry other wines.

For the main course, l'equipe McMurray had prepared coq au vin: chicken thighs and drumsticks cooked in a broth with aromatic vegetables and, of course, red wine. Some rich flavours although it lacked a bit of colour from the wine. It was accompanied by some unFrench but sweet and smooth kumera mash and by some (non-french again) beans which had the requisite crunch. Nothing gourmet, but attractive on the plate and a delight to eat, especially with a brace of vins de France: a 2012 Chirobles from Beaujolais and a 2012 Syrah from unidentified region(s). The Chirobles was an top drink, with typical gamay brightness but some structure on the palate. The other was ok, made in the fruitier Oz style, but lacking distinction.

The cheese Master continued the French theme with a great St Agur, a creamy blue vein cheese from the Auvergne. Firm in flavour without any metallic blue vein notes, this is a Society favourite, and it is interesting to note that it was only been created in the late 80's. An interesting salad of fresh pear, slightly pickled sliced beetroot and walnuts provided a blend of sweet and earthy which matched the cheese (and the wines) well. With these , some bigger wines in the shape of a 2010 Oratoire St Martin Cotes du Rhone, fruit dominant and with a high alcohol of 14%; and a 2007 Crozes Hermitage from Seize Galettes, made by Oz vignerons and showing some big fruit but with plenty of balancing acid and tannins, the latter still slightly hard at the end.

The coffee came from elsewhere, in this case Colombia, with low roast beans yielding a surprisingly rich mouthfeel albeit lacking acid ,especially on the finish.